St Laurence’s Church, Ludlow – the cathedral of the Marches

5 minute read
Written byOctavia Shaw

 

Driving through the glorious South Shropshire countryside, Ludlow appears nestled in a verdant valley. From a distance the buildings huddle around the Castle and the impressive tower of St Laurence’s.

Once in among the beautiful warren of medieval and Georgian streets, St Laurence’s is difficult to see. The castle is easily visible beside the market square, its walls sprawling on and sloping downwards towards the Linney and the river. From Dinham Bridge and across to Whitcliffe common, the castle dominates much of the town and the immediate surrounding area, as it quite rightly dominates the history books and tourist guides.

St Laurence’s, on the other hand, is a treasure to seek out, hidden as it is, behind the pillared façade of the Buttercross at the end of an unassuming, narrow and short alley. It is easy to miss if you aren’t looking out for it, but the rewards are enormous once found.

The vast oak doors at the entrance give you a hint of what is to come. Through these and the octagonal porch and into the spectacular nave, where moulded columns soar high above — truly a place of peace and serenity and where local community and tourists alike marvel at its extraordinary beauty.

what a View from the top! Photo: Chang Thai Ludlow

what a View from the top! Photo: Chang Thai Ludlow

Cathedral of the Marches

Known as the ‘Cathedral of the Marches’, many visitors come to climb the tower that rises 135 feet (41 metres) to reach the highest point in Ludlow and the wonderful bird’s eye view of the medieval streets below. The Carillon is a Victorian machine that plays the bells at 8am, noon, 4 pm and 8 pm (it is a little loud if you are up in the tower at any of these times!) and it plays a wide range of hymns.

Often you will hear in the church, local musicians practising for concerts, ranging from string quartets, Alastair McGowan’s virtuoso piano playing or the sublime singing of the choir or Deborah Rose. The famous 18th century Snetzler organ was originally installed in 1764 and is still used for church services, organ recitals and music recordings. The church is often used as a place for theatrical productions, art exhibitions and community sales.

History buffs will find a wealth of information. The wonderful volunteers are very knowledgeable and passionate about the history of the church. You can download apps that bring kings and historical figures alive – they burst out of the stain glass windows to tell their tale.

(The treasures of St Laurence’s Photos: Anna Walsh)

Kings and princes a part of historic Ludlow

Ludlow was the centre of the Council of the Marches. Many kings and princes of Wales spent much of their upbringing in Ludlow. This is reflected by numerous heraldic royal coats of arms around the church, but most notably the heart of Prince Arthur (eldest son and heir to Henry VII and brother to Henry VIII) which is buried in the Chancel.

Among other things, St Laurence’s is famous for its stained glass windows – some of which dates back to 1302 to more modern pre-Raphaelite.  Most well known is the ancient ‘golden window’, so called because of the silver nitrate fired to a golden colour.

The church’s treasures where somehow preserved during the worst violence of the reformation. Ludlow is blessed to have some highly unusual medieval carvings of the misericords (mercy seats) in the chancel, and people come to Ludlow especially to see them. The carvings are in wonderful condition and include harpies, bagpipe playing devils,  mermaids,  and a variety of animals including a dolphin and donkey dressed as a bishop!

A refuge for all

The new shop is a delight, with goodies to cater for all. It stocks all sorts of gifts such as delicious soaps, a broad range of candles and books, jewellery, children’s toys, china, decorations, ornaments, bags etc. It has the feel of a museum shop and prides itself on finding unusual stock not easily found elsewhere. They particularly champion ethically produced and fair trade items.   All profits go to the church.

(The shop at St Laurence’s is packed full of colourful gifts and cards)

Planned soon is a coffee shop, which will be set up and run to a similarly high standard, (Kelvin is signed up for his barista training already, and he and other members of the St Laurence’s team will be helping out serving coffee alongside the coffee shop staff occasionally, so watch out for a dog-collared waiter!)

St Laurence’s is a glorious place to visit, whatever the weather or occasion. A beautiful refuge when it is wet and cold to have a warming drink and a slice of tempting cake in stunning surroundings, or a respite from the sun, complete with medieval air conditioning when it is very hot and sunny! Or on a clear day, climb the tower to make the most of the views.

Amongst all these architectural treasures, historical knowledge and in its role as a community hub, St Laurence’s is first and foremost a church. With multiple services throughout the week, weddings, funerals and christenings and a place of refuge and quiet prayer in one of the side chapels.

Whatever your reason for a visit – you can be sure of a warm welcome.

For more information and opening hours visit St Laurence’s Church

(The treasures of St Laurence’s Photos: Anna Walsh)

Driving through the glorious South Shropshire countryside, Ludlow appears nestled in a verdant valley. From a distance the buildings huddle around the Castle and the impressive tower of St Laurence’s.

Once in among the beautiful warren of medieval and Georgian streets, St Laurence’s is difficult to see. The castle is easily visible beside the market square, its walls sprawling on and sloping downwards towards the Linney and the river. From Dinham Bridge and across to Whitcliffe common, the castle dominates much of the town and the immediate surrounding area, as it quite rightly dominates the history books and tourist guides.

St Laurence’s, on the other hand, is a treasure to seek out, hidden as it is, behind the pillared façade of the Buttercross at the end of an unassuming, narrow and short alley. It is easy to miss if you aren’t looking out for it, but the rewards are enormous once found.

The vast oak doors at the entrance give you a hint of what is to come. Through these and the octagonal porch and into the spectacular nave, where moulded columns soar high above — truly a place of peace and serenity and where local community and tourists alike marvel at its extraordinary beauty.

what a View from the top! Photo: Chang Thai Ludlow

what a View from the top! Photo: Chang Thai Ludlow

Cathedral of the Marches

Known as the ‘Cathedral of the Marches’, many visitors come to climb the tower that rises 135 feet (41 metres) to reach the highest point in Ludlow and the wonderful bird’s eye view of the medieval streets below. The Carillon is a Victorian machine that plays the bells at 8am, noon, 4 pm and 8 pm (it is a little loud if you are up in the tower at any of these times!) and it plays a wide range of hymns.

Often you will hear in the church, local musicians practising for concerts, ranging from string quartets, Alastair McGowan’s virtuoso piano playing or the sublime singing of the choir or Deborah Rose. The famous 18th century Snetzler organ was originally installed in 1764 and is still used for church services, organ recitals and music recordings. The church is often used as a place for theatrical productions, art exhibitions and community sales.

History buffs will find a wealth of information. The wonderful volunteers are very knowledgeable and passionate about the history of the church. You can download apps that bring kings and historical figures alive – they burst out of the stain glass windows to tell their tale.

Kings and princes a part of historic Ludlow

Ludlow was the centre of the Council of the Marches. Many kings and princes of Wales spent much of their upbringing in Ludlow. This is reflected by numerous heraldic royal coats of arms around the church, but most notably the heart of Prince Arthur (eldest son and heir to Henry VII and brother to Henry VIII) which is buried in the Chancel.

Among other things, St Laurence’s is famous for its stained glass windows – some of which dates back to 1302 to more modern pre-Raphaelite.  Most well known is the ancient ‘golden window’, so called because of the silver nitrate fired to a golden colour.

The church’s treasures where somehow preserved during the worst violence of the reformation. Ludlow is blessed to have some highly unusual medieval carvings of the misericords (mercy seats) in the chancel, and people come to Ludlow especially to see them. The carvings are in wonderful condition and include harpies, bagpipe playing devils,  mermaids,  and a variety of animals including a dolphin and donkey dressed as a bishop!

A refuge for all

The new shop is a delight, with goodies to cater for all. It stocks all sorts of gifts such as delicious soaps, a broad range of candles and books, jewellery, children’s toys, china, decorations, ornaments, bags etc. It has the feel of a museum shop and prides itself on finding unusual stock not easily found elsewhere. They particularly champion ethically produced and fair trade items.   All profits go to the church.

(The shop at St Laurence’s is packed full of colourful gifts and cards)

Planned soon is a coffee shop, which will be set up and run to a similarly high standard, (Kelvin is signed up for his barista training already, and he and other members of the St Laurence’s team will be helping out serving coffee alongside the coffee shop staff occasionally, so watch out for a dog-collared waiter!)

St Laurence’s is a glorious place to visit, whatever the weather or occasion. A beautiful refuge when it is wet and cold to have a warming drink and a slice of tempting cake in stunning surroundings, or a respite from the sun, complete with medieval air conditioning when it is very hot and sunny! Or on a clear day, climb the tower to make the most of the views.

Amongst all these architectural treasures, historical knowledge and in its role as a community hub, St Laurence’s is first and foremost a church. With multiple services throughout the week, weddings, funerals and christenings and a place of refuge and quiet prayer in one of the side chapels.

Whatever your reason for a visit – you can be sure of a warm welcome.

For more information and opening hours visit St Laurence’s Church